Through wilderness up to the north
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We are leaving Kinloch Rannoch behind and turn to the left at Balmore
on to the B847.
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Via Trinafour we pass the Glen Errochty. Behind Arch Bridge we reach
the A9 at Calvine in northern direction.
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There is a sign 'Welcome to the Highlands' as we enter the Forest
of Atholl drive. In between the A9 becomes two-lane and that is each time our chance,
to overtake slow cars and truck. It is quite hot on this day and we smile regarding the snowsticks at both sides of the street, which mark the streets in winter. |
On the rest area Ralia we stop and it is selfunderstood in Scotland,
to find very clean sanitary plants. These walls are illuminated at night with floodlights visible for
many miles.
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The River Spey, which was since many kilometers
our companion, leaves us now and as we cross the River Dulnain, the
landscape changes. We are passing beautiful jaws and heather. Then excitement, as we cross the River Findhorn and pass at the Loch Moy:
in the pine forest of the Drummossie Muir rages a forest fire. The fire
department of Inverness interferes, smoke is everywhere. |
Finally the fire department appears
to get the fire under control,
we can move on and reach Inverness.
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The terrain has become meanwhile quite flat, we refuel once more
to reasonable prices at Kildary, until we reached Tain and turn on the A836.
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Since we are in a hurry, we leave out the famous 'Falls
of Shin'. A short stop in Lairg follows and again we find out that in Scottish
pub one rarely gets something for lunch. Again and again I must think of the words 'Altnaharra is not the Sahara' as the A836 turns into a narrow single track.
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Flat area, frames by mountain ranges, very beautiful solitude, to
the left side accompanies us a small river: Tirry.
A primeval landscape, now and then Cattle Grids. We get to Crask Inn,
much to our surprise a sign in German language points out 'beware of
lambs'. |
Then we reach Altnaharra, we pass on further to the north to the
Loch Loyally. Many gadflies live here, every now and then are to be seen the remainders
of abandoned houses.
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Then the end of this very beautiful, lonely ride through the wilderness
has come, we reach Tongue and are rewarded by a fantastic view at the bay
of Tongue. We make a side-trip after Durness over the A838 around the Caves of
Smoo Cave for a visit. Aside a small youth hostel it goes one over a dam in
the Kyle of Tongue and gets exciting.
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The landscape changes, rocks around - a 15 %-slope aside a mountain
- descent through a fantastic landscape.
Further we go to Loch Eribol, which indeed is no Loch but a bay. We
have to drive to the other side. Beside decayed houses many trailers of dropouts
stand here.
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The mountains releases the view at a large bay with white beach,
we have the feeling, to be somewhere at the Mediterranean, however lots
of gadflies do not fit in this beautiful picture.
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After this exciting excursion the cool cave of Smoo Cave a cure for
us. It is impressively beautiful here and we listen to the sound of the
dropping water, which falls down partially from a distance of 25 meters.
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On Single Tracks we go, at Coldbacki we have an incomparable view
at the sea. We are again now on single tracks when a cow before a Cattle
Grid blocks the way. In the evening sun we enjoy the prospect of the bay of Bettyhill,
then we drive a piece along the coast.
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Via Armadale, Strathy, Melvich we reach Thorso. On straight distance
it goes on after Castletown, passing old ruins and we decide, to have abreak
on our way back.
The bay of Dunnet is ahead us - a fantastic view. Finally we reach
Dunnet Head, the most northerly part of Britain.
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Some Minutes later we find our Bed and Breakfast quarter beside the
only telephone in Brough. We stop here greeted by the first Highland-caddle on this route. Kindly
we are greeted in the house Windhaven and after we have unloaded our luggage,
we visit the 'Northern of sand Sands'.
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After a moderate dinner amounting to 33 Pds we go back to our Bed
& Breakfast accommodation.
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The next morning we have to leave after an excellent, extensive typical
British breakfast.
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We have a look to the Orkneys and it goes back to Dunnet Bay.
The most beautiful beach of Scotland is here, which indeed is even
better than the somewhat smaller at Bettyhill. However, the beaches of Morar,
Arisaig, Uist and Harris are great, too. White sand and clear water, personally
Romo and Amrum can not keep close to that.
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We have of course no swimming-clothes, but that does not matter.
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Under protest of the children we leave this paradise and back it
goes over the A836 after Thorso.
This time we are paying the promised visit to the old ruin at Castletown.
Along the A882 and the A895 it goes through heather, in the peat is
stung, further on the east coast on the A9. From Dunbeath - here Neill M.
Gunn lived - it is getting exciting.
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The sea is on the left as a companion and the sign 'Try Your Brakes!' at Berriedale do say anything. An insane mountain - and descent begins. We can smell the rubber of our brakes during we drive down in serpents and in the next moment steeply uphill direction sea of Helmsdale. pass Bora with its Destillery and Dunrobin Castle. We cross the long bridge at Durnoch and Tain finally reaching a large bridge over the Morray Firth at Inverness. In Aviemore we get Fish and Chips before we leave the A9 at Glen Gary to Trinafour. It is a quite narrow way, which meanders up and down through a fantastic landscape.
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| Again and again sheeps are runnung at the street and we drive only slowly, until we see the Ben Á Chuallaich like a giant before us. The sun is already on her way towards the horizon, as we drive through swarms of mitches in our quarter. |